While a good "kraack"
or "boom" may have been good while Batman was taking down the Joker, such
startling sounds are no joke for your dog. Firecrackers, thunder, and other
loud, out-of-nowhere sounds often leave dogs frightened and wanting to flee
to a safer place. These types of fears may develop even though your dog has
had no traumatic experiences associated with the sound. The good news is
that many fear-related problems can be successfully resolved. If left
untreated, however, your dog's fearful behavior will probably get worse.
The most common behavior problems associated with fear of loud noises are
destruction and escaping. When your dog becomes frightened, she tries to
reduce her fear. She may try to escape to a place where the sounds of
thunder or firecrackers are less intense. If she feels less afraid by
leaving the yard or going into a certain room or area of the house, then the
escape or destructive behavior is reinforced because it successfully lessens
her fear. For some dogs, just the activity or physical exertion associated
with one of these behaviors may be an outlet for their anxiety.
Unfortunately, escape and/or destructive behavior can be a problem for you
and could also result in physical injury to your dog. Your dog may also
begin to associate a particular startling noise with other things in her
environment, and she may grow afraid of these other things because she
associates them with the loud noise that frightens her. For example, dogs
who are afraid of thunder may later become afraid of the wind, dark clouds,
and flashes of light that often precede the sound of thunder. Dogs who do
not like the sound of firecrackers may become fearful of the children who
have the firecrackers or may become afraid to go in the backyard, if that's
where they usually hear the noise.
What You Can Do to Help
Create a Safe Place
Try to create a safe place for your dog to go to when she hears the
noises that frighten her. But remember, this must be a safe location from
her perspective, not yours. Notice where she goes, or tries to go, when
she's frightened, and if at all possible, give her access to that place. If
she's trying to get inside the house, consider installing a dog door. If
she's trying to get under your bed, give her access to your bedroom.
You can also create a "hidey-hole" that is dark, small, and shielded from
the frightening sound as much as possible. Encourage her to go there when
you're home and the thunder or other noise occurs. Consider using a fan or
radio near the spot to help block out the sound. Feed her in that location
and help your dog associate that spot with other "good things" happening to
her there. She must be able to come and go from this location freely.
Confining her in the "hidey-hole" when she doesn't want to be there will
only cause more problems. The "safe place" approach may work with some dogs,
but not all. Some dogs are motivated to move and be active when frightened
and "hiding out" won't help them feel less fearful.
Distract Your Dog
This method works best when your dog is just beginning to get anxious.
Encourage her to engage in any activity that captures her attention and
distracts her from behaving fearfully. Start when she first alerts you to
the noise and is not yet showing a lot of fearful behavior, but is only
watchful. Immediately try to interest her in doing something that she really
enjoys. Get out the tennis ball and play fetch (in an escape-proof area), or
practice some commands that she knows. Reward her with praise and treats for
paying attention to the game or the commands.
As the storm or other noise builds, you may not be able to keep her
attention on the activity, but it might delay the start of the fearful
behavior for longer and longer each time you do it. If you can't keep her
attention and she begins acting fearfully, stop the process. If you
continue, you may inadvertently reinforce her fearful behavior.
Behavior Modification
Behavior modification techniques are often successful in reducing fears
and phobias. The appropriate techniques are called "counter-conditioning"
and "desensitization." These techniques condition or teach your dog to
respond in non-fearful ways to sounds and other stimuli that have previously
frightened her. These techniques must be implemented very gradually. Begin
by exposing your dog to an intensity level of noise that doesn't frighten
her and pairing the noise with something pleasant, like a treat or a fun
game. Gradually increase the volume as you continue to offer her something
pleasant. Through this process, she'll come to associate "good things" with
the previously feared sound.
Here an example of how to do this:
- Make a tape with firecracker noises on it.
- Play the tape at such a low volume that your dog doesn't respond
fearfully. While the tape is playing, feed her dinner, give her a treat,
or play her favorite game.
- In your next session, play the tape a little louder while you feed her
or play her favorite game.
- Continue increasing the volume through many sessions over a period of
several weeks or months. If she displays fearful behavior at any time
while the tape is playing, STOP. Begin your next session at a lower
volume, one that doesn't produce anxiety, and proceed more slowly.
If these techniques aren't used correctly, they won't be successful and
can even make the problem worse.
For some fears, it can be difficult to recreate the fear stimulus. For
example, thunder is accompanied by lightning, rain, and changes in
barometric pressure; your dog's fearful response may be to the combination
of these things and not just the thunder. You may need professional
assistance to create and implement this kind of behavior modification
program.
Consult Your Veterinarian
Medication may be available which can help reduce your dog's anxiety
levels for short time periods. Your veterinarian is the only person who is
qualified and licensed to prescribe medication for your dog. Don't attempt
to give your dog any over-the-counter or prescription medication without
consulting your veterinarian. Animals don't respond to drugs the same way
people do, and a medication that may be safe for humans could be fatal to
your dog. Drug therapy alone won't reduce fears and phobias permanently, but
in extreme cases, behavior modification and medication used together might
be the best approach.
What Not to Do
- Do not attempt to reassure your dog when she is afraid. This may only
reinforce her fearful behavior. If you pet, soothe, or give treats to her
when she's behaving fearfully, she may interpret this as a reward for her
fearful behavior. Instead, try to behave normally, as if you don't notice
her fearfulness.
- Do not put your dog in a crate to prevent her from being destructive
during a thunderstorm. She'll still be fearful when she's in the crate and
is likely to injure herself, perhaps even severely, while attempting to
get out of the crate.
- Do not punish your dog for being afraid. Punishment will only make her
more fearful.
- Do not try to force your dog to experience or be close to the sound
that frightens her. For example, making her stay close to a group of
children who are lighting firecrackers will only make her more afraid, and
could cause her to become aggressive in an attempt to escape from the
situation.
These approaches will fail because they won't decrease your dog's fear.
Merely trying to prevent her from escaping or being destructive won't work,
either. If your dog is still afraid, she'll continue to show that fear in
whatever way she canwhether by digging, jumping, climbing, chewing,
barking, or howling. Finally, know that formal training won't make your dog
less afraid of thunder or other noises, although it could help boost her
general confidence.
Animal-Behavior Specialists
If your dog has severe fears and phobias and you're unable to achieve
success with the techniques we've outlined here, you should consult with an
animal-behavior specialist and your veterinarian.
©2002. Adapted from material originally developed by
applied animal behaviorists at the Dumb Friends League, Denver, Colorado.
All rights reserved.
